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High Power RGB LED Shield for Arduino
lighting up power LEDs is difficult and complex.
Now, you have High Power RGB LED Shield for your arduino.
Just connect your super bright LEDs and light up !!
Specification
- 700mA 3 channel LED driver based on lt3496 (buck configuration)
- I2C controlled 3 channel PWM for dimming leds
- dynamically adjustable current output ( can be used for analog dimming as well )
- 42V input, 36V output. Drive up to 40W LEDs
- 5V switching power supplier (up to 42V input)
- many shields can be stacked and only use two I2C pins (A4, A5) from arduino
- optional temp sensor for monitor led temp and PCB temp
Three Purchase Options
- HP RGB Shield – fully assembled and tested
- HP RGB Shield + Stackable pins (4 female long pins)
- HP RGB Shield + Stackable pins + temperature sensor (TMP421, 5 remote sensors)
Shipping
- USA : $5.35 (2-3days) Shipped by USPS Priority Mail. Delivery confirmation.
- Canada and Mexico : $12.95 (6-10days) Shipped by USPS Priority Mail. No tracking
- Other international countries : $16.95 (6-10days) Shipped by USPS Priority Mail. No tracking
- If you want use other shipping method or your own account, please email at neuroelec@gmail.com
- Sku
- a001
- Description
- HP RGB LED Shield V2.0
- Product Options
# Option Price 1 shield $40.00 2 shield+stackable pins $41.50 3 shield+pins+temp sensors $45.00 - Shipping
- Shipping Rate: A
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#10 written by neuroelec 1 year ago
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#12 written by Chris 1 year ago
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#14 written by Joshua Chia 1 year ago
I’m interested in using this shield with this RGB LED plate that you listed in the buying guide:
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/30w-1500-lumen-rgb-led-emitter-metal-plate-39960Two of the channels require at least 32V. Doesn’t that mean I need to supply a power input of at least 32V? However, laptop power adapters are only 24V. Do you have recommendations for this situation?
Furthermore, I’m interested in using two of the plates. If I connect them in series, I’ll need 64V. If I connect them in parallel, I’m afraid something bad may happen. E.g. if one plate blows, the shield will send all the target current to the surviving plate, frying it. For the serial case, can the shield handle 64V@350mA, assuming I find the adapter I need?
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#15 written by Joshua Chia 1 year ago
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#16 written by Joshua Chia 1 year ago
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#17 written by neuroelec 1 year ago
You are right. You need about 36V AC-DC power supply to power the LED you mentioned. If you let me know how many LED you will run, I will recommend couple of power adapter. If you are going to connect many LED, followings can be used.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260754219943
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180641008830-
#18 written by Joshua Chia 1 year ago
I would like to use two of RGB LED plates I linked, so the total output power will be 60W. Since each plate has a ~30V drop, and the shield can only handle 42V, connecting the plates in series to the shield won’t work, so I have to connect them in parallel.
At around 30V, 30W per plate and 350mA per channel, output current for two plates will be around 2A-2.5A. Considering inefficiency of the shield, a 36V 4A power supply should suffice, right?
If I get a power supply like the ones you linked, I have to solder my own DC cable that has a 2.1mm pole jack, correct? I wonder whether there’s an easier way. I’d prefer to use power supplies that are fully enclosed like those for laptops. I’m using the LEDs to modify a floor lamp, so it will be better if I don’t have to worry where to attach the power supply. If it’s like a laptop power adapter, I can just leave it on the floor.
Also, do you have any suggestions for diffusers? The plate emits light for at most 180 degrees, not 360 degrees, but I’m using only two of them in a floor lamp:
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/80028552
So, I need as much diffusion as possible.
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#19 written by neuroelec 1 year ago
@ Joshua,
The shield can not be use 60W and can not support 60W LED. You have to use two shields for two 30W LEDs. The efficiency of the shield is very high ( should be > 85%). You can use 3A at 36V. You should able to find labtop power like supply at the range.
I have not seen any diffuser with 360 degree. If you place at the bottom of the lamp, I think it would work.-
#20 written by Joshua Chia 1 year ago
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#22 written by shane cissell 1 year ago
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#24 written by shane cissell 1 year ago
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#26 written by Dag C.Bjørnsen 1 year ago
I’m doing some LED projects as a hobby, and have recently started using the CXA2011 LED with great success. The problem is that the CXA2011 is 40V(270ma). Is there any possiblility to use the LED shield on those LEDs?
Also is it possible to power several of these shields with one powersupply(without a multiple output powersupply if thery’re stacked)?
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#28 written by dunkel 1 year ago
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#30 written by stephen 1 year ago
Hello,
firsst of all congrats on your work, great job.
I would like to order a board + temp sensor + pins. Postage is to australia, Unit 14/68-70, newman St, Merrylands, NSW, 2160, AUSTRALIAYou can send me a paypal request to my email. Looking forward to getting the board to finally get my RGB project going.
Regards
Stephen
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#31 written by Peter Jakobs 1 year ago
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#32 written by Anonymous 1 year ago
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#34 written by Psyked 1 year ago
Hi, You wouldn’t believe how long i have been looking for just this product so thanks so much. Im just about to pull the trigger on one but have a couple of questions (probably quite basic) ;
1. Do you have any plans for a revised model in the near future (e.g a 1000ma option)?
2. I hear running LEDs using analogue dimming is more efficient as LEDs are most efficient under a stable load, is this correct?
Thanks in advance! -
just thought I’d share with you what I’m doing and where I stand:
I assembled the first part of what I’m planning to do, 2m of aluminium rail with three CREE XP-G Q5 and two CREE XP-E RGBs attached to it. This is driven by two HPLED Shields @700mA. The RGB LEDs are used to adjust light colour from cold to warm (or even greenish).
Currently, overall luminance is controlled by a simple poti and so is hue, the HSL saturation is fixed to 50%.
I’m thinking I’ll be using a touchpad from an old notebook to control those two dimensions in the final product.
I’ll have three different rails of white LEDs driven by the three channels from one board plus one RGB rail.
I could see the touchpad work like this: slide up or down on the left edge, the middle or the right edge to adjust the luminosity of one of the three white channels (maybe have some coupling with the others) and slide along the bottom to set the hue. Actually, sliding along the top could set the colour saturation.pictures are here
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#38 written by Joe 1 year ago
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#41 written by neuroelec 1 year ago
The shield is designed for about 40W LED driving. If you connect 30 LED at 0.7A, it will be about 70W. I don’t think the shield will operate properly even with additional cooling. You may want to check temp of the driver chip carefully by connecting LED one by one, then decide maximum power it can deliver in your set-up. For the safe operation, I would recommend to maintain the temp below 80 celcius degree.
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you’re making me wish I had bought the temperature sensor option (which I did not because I have my LEDs mounted on large aluminium rails, 50cm apart from each other).
What does need the most cooling? The LT3496 I suppose. Anything else? I should be able to fit some aluminium heatsinks to the chips and maybe even mount them on some forced airflow.
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#43 written by Euler 1 year ago
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#45 written by Brian 1 year ago
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#47 written by MCM 1 year ago
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so this is what you get, when you’re foolish and power up a shorted circuit.
I will need a new board and I will, this time, order it with the temp sensor.
I’m wondering, if something can be done to detect a short and limit the output current? (ok, it’s not something that will usually happen, in fact, it was particularly stupid of me here… but still, just in case) -
#52 written by Joe Register 1 year ago
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#54 written by Christian 1 year ago
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#56 written by Seth 1 year ago
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#57 written by neuroelec 1 year ago
I will send you email when they are ready to ship. please send me what you want to order to neuroelec@gmail.com
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#58 written by James Haskell 12 months ago
I’ve sent you several emails to neuroelec@gmail.com about buying a board but have not received a response. Is everything OK on your end? Any chance of getting a board from you soon?
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#61 written by Kevin Smet 11 months ago
Hi, I’m building a spectrally tunable light osurce using several high power LEDs. I’m interested in your LED shield. I would need to be able to individually control 12 -15 channels (each channel might contain several LEDs in series). So I would need 4 or 5 shields. Could you tell me what the delivery time for this would be?
Also, is it possible to store several settings (for each channel) into the devices so that they don’t need to be connected to the computer once I’ve found the settings I need? So you just turn them on and a predetermined setting launches (with the possibility to switch to a different setting at the push of a button)? I’ve found a LED driver that does this, unfortunately the total input voltage is limited, it’s also only 8 bit and has only 3 channels (www.chromoflex.com).regards,
Kevin Smet
Postdoctoral Fellow,
University of British Columbia, Canada-
Hi Kevin,
we havn’t heard much from neuroelec recently.
To answer your question., you should be able to store settings in Arduino’s EEPROM (512 Bytes for the ATmega 328). Alternatively, you could use an ethernet shield with an SDCard slot if you need much more storage than that.I’m thinking of maybe trying to get a batch of boards made myself, since neuroelec has provided the necessary files. I need to figure out the pricing.
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#68 written by Peter Jakobs 9 months ago
since Neuroelec seems to have disappeared (I really hope he’s ok and only terribly busy), I’ve started getting quotes to manufacture boards here in Germany. I assume that, in a batch of 50, I’ll be able to make them for a decent price. Question is: is there demand for 50 all in all right now?
Please comment and let me know how many you’d like to have.pj
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I am about to do the same. I’ve bought 6 shields so far and last had contact with him in April. He had started working on a next revision but made me aware that he was incredibly busy with his rprofessional research work.
I was concerned that he may not be ok and reached out, but received no response. My project ( see link) consumed 5 of the shields and I only have on left for experimenting around. I have contemplated about changing the design to mak connections easier and to be ale to use it over longer I2C distances.
Peter, if you get some made, I’d take 2 of them.
Perhaps as LED projects are so popular in the Ardiono world you can advertise on the Arduino Forum and generate some more interest. -
#75 written by Peter Jakobs 8 months ago
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Also, 2-4 m of I2C distance should not be a problem with the shield as is.
The lighting system on the home page of my blog called “Lord Of The Rings” spans across about 14 feet and has 5 of these shields in action. I confirmed that signal quality ( voltage level and signal degradation/ shape) is good with an oscilloscope.I know that neurelec was working on a new revision, that included for example Ethernet connectors for easier connectivity. He sent me the layout last December, but naturally I would not disclose this without his permission.
Honestly, I don’t understand why neurelec is dead silent on his blog. I’ve tried to reach out to him personally ( I know his name, what he does for a living and where he works) but have received no response whatsoever. I cannot disclose that information either, of course!
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#84 written by Luke 7 months ago
I’m starting to get worried that something’s happened to our fearless shield maker.
This domain expires in early December, so we’ll soon see if he’s still around.
I would strongly advise anyone with a shield to download a copy of the manual (and any other material on the site you think you might need. it may all be gone in a few weeks.
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Thanks for the hint! Done!
I’ve ordered materials for to make 5 of these shields and hope to get around making them before christmas. Should that work out OK I may make a bigger batch, depending on interest.
Should this blog disappear I also am contemplating of hosting the documentation found here on my little blog:
trippylighting.com
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#86 written by Luke 7 months ago
I hope it doesn’t come to that, but it would be great to know that this is all preserved if that happens.
I’d be interested in at least one more shield. I’m not in a rush to get it though, since it would just be a backup for the one I currently have deployed.
I don’t suppose you (or anyone else) knows about analog dimming? I want to switch to analog from PWM since I’m just running white LEDs and neuroelec has stated a few times that it’s more efficient than PWM (also, there’s no flickering). Unfortunately I haven’t found any really solid information on doing it.
From what I can gather, I just need to call the setCurrent() function with a lower current than what my LEDs are rated for. Is that correct? Is there a minimum current that the hardware can handle? And should I limit how often I call setCurrent()? I assume it’s OK to call it a lot as long as I don’t call eepromWrite() each time?
Thanks!
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I sure do know about analog dimming. You are correct that you have to simply call the setCurrent function. However, with changing current you also have to change the PWM frequency to get the minimal gains in efficiency. Its not really worth it!
I’ve actually combined the setCurrent and setFrequency commands and am using an alternate I2C library. You don’t need to call the eepromWrite() each time. Only when you really want to store the desired setting for current
Also I came across a problem (don’t remember the specifics) which was the reason I combined the setCurrent and setFrequency commands. Again, it’s not really worth it. I believe you cannot go lower than 100mA. If you really want smooth dimming use PWM.Also, if it flickers you’re doing something wrong. I am using the brightness corrected 8 bit goToRGB function (256 “steps”) and it fades as smooth as butter. You can see a video of one of my lighting systems on my little blog (trippylighting.com) and if it appears to be choppy it has to do with the iPad camera that I made the video with and an added layer of nastyness from the video compression algorithm.
I can assure you there is absolutely no flickering or perceivable brightness jumps.-
#88 written by Luke 7 months ago
Wow! Thanks for your reply!
It sounds like analog dimming isn’t worth the effort, especially if I can’t go lower than 100mA. I’m using this stuff to build lighting for my fish tank and I want to simulate sunrise/sunset so it needs to go down very low.
I think I have everything set up correctly. Fading is smooth, the flickering I see is only evident when moving an object or my eyes quickly. I guess it would have been better described as strobing. I don’t see it when my eyes (or objects) are moving slowly. Given the drawbacks of analog dimming, PWM dimming should be fine.
Thanks for taking the time to explain it to me!
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#89 written by Peter Jakobs 7 months ago
Peter, sorry for my silence here.
I had inquired for the board manuafacture but honestly didn’t have the time to go further and collect prices for the whole BoM including manufacture. If you have a good source to get them made, please do include 4 for me, too.I also suggest we set up a 2nd source for the information on neuroelec’s site if the worst has happened / happens. I believe this is an immensly valuable project and we should keep it going if at all possible.
As a quick measure, we could set up a blog on wordpress.com to capture the content. All the development files (schemes, boards, libraries) are on google code anyway, but we need to maintain the documentation and many of the threads here.
I have created https://ledshield.wordpress.com/ and will start copying the original content over.
Please do comment / dm me there and I’ll include you to the admin team.
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#92 written by Luke 6 months ago
It’s been a pleasure knowing you gentlemen.
See you on the other site (https://ledshield.wordpress.com) -
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#95 written by Anonymous 6 months ago
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well, if neuroelec is still around and does come back, I’ll be more than happy to stop the fork, but for now, if you want to discuss the shield, hop on over to http://ledshield.wordpress.com/
pj
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I have not had my own blog for long enough to really know, however, it a is relatively common practice to continue a subscription unless it is actively cancelled and unless of course there is something wrong with the credit card charge.
I know neuroelecs real name, and what he does for a living and where he does it . Naturally I won’t share that here!
He seemed very interested in my project and was very helpful when I came across problems.He was working on a new revision of the shield but did make me aware that he was very busy with his work and an I am not sure he ever was able to finish the prototype for the new revision he was working on.
Either way, when I was ready to start another project I tried to reach out to him personally and received no response, so for the time being I assume he has lost interest in his creation and won’t be back at least for a good while.
Meanwhile, however, I want another shield and this one has a unique set of features that I really like, so the other site that I have been invited to co- host provides a form do do that.
Also, I would like a couple of minor changes that make it easier to connect the shields to the I2C. The pull-up resistors are already relatively small @1.8k and when using 5 shield on one I2C bus over 4 meters of CAT5 cable, need to be replaced with higher values. With the current shields that is difficult to do.
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#98 written by Bruce 5 months ago
Hi,
Your design looks great — I was just about to dive into a similar project myself. Are you still selling the HP LED shields? If so, please drop me a note so I can arrange to buy a few.
If not, would you be willing to sell me permission to make some boards (for use in my project), based on your schematics or PCB masks?
Thanks very much, and Congratulations,
Bruce -
Bruce,
Despite continuing interest in this shield Neuroelec has not attended to his blog in the last 6 months.
This is an open source-open hardware project and if you venture into the “Manuals” section you can find the layouts in Eagle format available for download (they are hosted on Github).Should you come to the conclusion that making the shield yourself is too cumbersome and burdened with too high cost, you may want to come over to “the other blog” https://ledshield.wordpress.com
that another user and have started in order for the information not to disappear. We are in process of getting quotes on a small batch of these shields. If you;re interested, please leave a comment. -
#100 written by Scott W. 3 months ago
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#101 written by Bruce 3 months ago
Hi,
I recommend you visit https://ledshield.wordpress.com, to see the latest discussion re. this project.
Bruce
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#102 written by Peter 3 months ago
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Hi Peter,
There never was a Buy button here, you had to leave a post here and the original owner of this blog would contact you. However, he appears to have abandoned this blog so another user are continuing the development on this shield and were getting closer to having a small batch of a slightly improved version of this shield produced.
You can get updates here:
http://ledshield.wordpress.com/
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Hi David,
The shield on this website is out of production. However, another user and I have pulled over the info on this blog
Onto another blog to conserve It and to continue development of this shield.
You may want to venture over to:http://ledshield.wordpress.com/
I have redesigned the shield and added a few improvements. We are not producing this shield in numbers yet but will do so as soon as Tindie.com reinstates their fundraisers.
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would i be able to hire you to program the arduino’s that would control these lamps.
I’d need 5 maybe 6 of these for my project. Is there a discount if I order that many boards at once ?
Thanks!